Explore Durham

Discovering Ojibway heritage at Scugog Shores Museum

A sunny summer day may seem like an unusual time to visit a museum, but because of its pretty island setting, Scugog Shores Museum is the perfect place to spend the afternoon, wandering past picket fences overflowing with roses and a dozen restored historic buildings.

Although it’s only a couple of kilometers from downtown Port Perry via the Island Road causeway, Scugog Shores feels a world apart. Fishermen line the causeway, and cottagers escape their cares on the island’s shores.
FISHING
Like other pioneer museums, this one has its blacksmith, its print shop, its log cabin and church—all from the region. But what makes Scugog Shores special is its relationship to the local community, including the Mississaugas of Scugog Island.

I was fascinated with the wigwam, built without nails and using traditional materials—sheets of birch bark covering bent saplings tied with strips of basswood. According to curator Shannon Kelly, wigwams like this were built each spring when First Nations people walked northward, from their winter home on the shore of Lake Ontario to camp at Lake Scugog, enjoying the area’s bounty, from maple syrup to wild rice.

The traditional craft of basket weaving with natural materials has been kept alive here and the museum has some excellent examples of locally made baskets from the 1920s and 30s when they would have been produced for the tourist trade. I thought this large elm bark basket was especially fine.

I picked up a free flyer to learn more about some of the native plants that surround the wigwam and was fascinated with their practical uses—sweet cicely to soothe sore throats, sweet flag to alleviate stomach cramps, red maple wood for arrow shafts and pagoda dogwood to lure muskrats into traps, like the one pictured above in the 1840s log cabin.

Local artifacts, like these red chairs made by early island settler William Dunn and painted with oxblood, find a loving home here. Among the most interesting treasures is a collection of cartoons by Jimmy Frise, a Scugog Island farm boy who became Canada’s pre-eminent newspaper cartoonist of the early 20th century. An exhibit of his work continues at Port Perry’s Township building until Aug. 14.

Driving the island’s scenic roads, I was struck by the bucolic scenes, including this group of cattle sheltering under an ancient maple.

Scapes, strawberries and dog "cashmere" at Pickering market

I like a market that sells something special, something extra fresh and fabulous that can’t be found at the local grocery. Welcome to Pickering’s 100-Mile Farmers’ Market, organized by the Durham West Arts Centre and held every Thursday from 3 to 7 p.m. through October 8, in the back parking lot of the Pickering Recreation Complex on Valley Farm Road.

Immediately, I was drawn to a tartan dog basket filled with hand-knitted mitts, socks and a sign that read “In this dog bed: Items spun from ‘dog hair’. The poor man’s cashmere.” Intrigued, I stroked a soft wooly sock. “That’s golden retriever,” said Lynn Hasson. “Dog hair has been used for centuries, like wool.” When I asked about the reference to cashmere, she explained, “Cashmere is the underbrushing of a goat. This is the underbrushing of a dog.” Also in the basket were items knitted with wool from a red golden retriever, border collie, Akita and malamute. It seems that many people bring their dog brushings to Lynn, in the hopes that she will make a lasting and practical memento of their pet.

Of course, there are many more conventional farm products here, like rhubarb pies from a Cobourg area orchard and these spectacular bunches of sweet Williams.

Just as fragrant as the flowers was the fresh cilantro from River Road Garden near Lindsay, along with Swiss chard, spinach, bok choy and spring mix. Later in the season they’ll be adding heirloom tomatoes and squash to the vegetable bounty.

My unofficial award for the most unusual produce of the day went to Marlene McKay of Willowtree Farm near Port Perry, who brought rhubarb, strawberries and scapes (long, green garlic tops). Marlene, who was keen for me to visit her family farm, explained how these strawberries were grown on plastic, requiring less spraying and advancing the harvest time by two weeks. More on Willowtree Farm in weeks to come.

At Aunt Lily’s Pantry, I found jars of organic pickles beets, roasted garlic and pepper cheese curds, and some very tasty peanut butter cookies.  I’m looking forward to returning as more vendors join the original seven later in the season.

Eco-friendly golf at the Royal Ashburn

When I saw the Turtles-of-Ontario poster hanging up in the hallway of the Royal Ashburn, I knew I would like this golf course. Situated in the rolling countryside north of Whitby, this is a setting of outstanding natural beauty.

It’s also a course with plenty of tradition. Run by the Paterson family since it opened in 1962, it evokes golf’s Scottish heritage with its kilt-clad tournament starter Paul Turley and the course coat of arms emblazoned on the flags at each green.

“We’re one of the top 50 courses in Canada as rated by the Globe and Mail,” said manager Scott Paterson as he toured me around the scenic course. “We host the longest-running professional event at one venue in Canada, the Canadian Tour Fall Qualifying School.”

Mature trees lend a suitably royal feel to the course, which comes by its name honestly; Prince Andrew played here in 1999. Lynde Creek, visible on seven of the 18 holes, runs through the property, creating possibilities for wildlife. “We don’t mow around the edges to create habitat for amphibians and reptiles,” said Paterson.

I was struck by the creek-side wildflowers and these colourful water lilies.

Working with Ducks Unlimited, the local conservation authority and others, the Royal Ashburn has recently developed a 10-acre wetland in a series of three ponds filled with water from an artesian well. Planting has just begun and already they are teeming with tadpoles. Swallows swooped above.

With such a pretty setting, it’s not surprising that this is a popular wedding venue. But let’s not forget the golf. With five sets of tees, you can play 18 holes in distances ranging from 4970 to 7098 yards.

Much in need of a lesson, I met up with golf pro Frank Corby whose patience and wise words impressed me. Reminding me that the point of the game is to have fun, he demonstrated the proper grip while explaining that he teaches how to swing, not how to hit. With his confidence-building advice, I was thrilled to end the morning with the satisfying “thwak” of a club connecting properly with a ball. Thanks, Frank.

Strawberry season starts in Durham

Strawberry fields forever—well maybe not forever, but at least until September. Sweet as a summer afternoon and seeming nearly as fleeting, the local June strawberry season used to be over in barely four weeks. That was until Durham farmers started growing day-neutral strawberries.  At Pingle’s Farm Market, the strawberry season now stretches into September thanks to these ever-bearing fruit that are unaffected by the shorter days after the summer solstice.

Earlier this week, I had the pleasure of attending a celebration at Pingle’s, marking the family’s recent award from the Ontario Farm Fresh Marketing Association. In the three-plus decades since he started working the 1857 family farm, Walter Pingle converted the dairy operation to cash crops, first selling surplus at the roadside from the family picnic table. When the local cannery closed down, Walter and his wife Colleen expanded their roadside market.  Today it’s become a popular place for families to shop and pick fruit, thanks to its children’s playground and bunny village.

Local chef Christian Pritchard was grilling asparagus (also grown and sold at the farm) and serving up fresh berries. When I asked him for his favourite recipe, he didn’t hesitate, “If they are perfect like these, the just throw them on the table with a little black pepper, reduced balsamic and vanilla ice-cream.”

Walter treated us to a wagon ride through the farm, past fields of newly planted pumpkins, rows of raspberry bushes and young orchards where young apple trees grafted onto sturdy Russian rootstock. “One of my favourite jobs is taking kids into the orchard, explaining grafting and how bees pollinate.” It’s that enthusiasm that carries Walter and Colleen through so many new adventures, including beekeeping.

I left with a quart of berries, half of which were still there when I arrived home. As I headed back, I was struck by how beautiful Durham’s roads look at this time of year. Check out this field of daisies on Courtice Road.

Weather depending, many local strawberry farms will open their fields starting this weekend to visitors who want to pick their own, but phone ahead first to confirm availability. Durham is particularly blessed with pick-your-own strawberry producers, including: Linton Farms, Spring View Farms, Paul Watson Farms and Willowtree Farm.

Tasting the 100-mile menu at Parkwood’s tea rooom

Any excuse to visit Oshawa’s stately Parkwood Estate is welcome, so when Kevin Anyan of Kings Court Catering invited me to check out the new 100-mile menu that chef Sarah Groen has introduced to Parkwood’s tea house this summer, I happily obliged. Walking past the white garden on my way to the tea house, I was reminded just how pleasant a summer day can be in the park-like grounds.

At the edge of an Art Deco pool and surrounded by formal gardens, this is one of Ontario’s prettiest outdoor restaurants; so it’s a delight to see a menu that lives up to the unique setting. Already a popular venue for lunch and afternoon tea, the restaurant is now serving fixed-price, four-course dinners every Thursday evening through August 27.

While still keeping a few imported essentials including tea, coffee and chocolate, the menu now features locally grown and raised mains, many of which are organic.  I loved the chicken terrine made with capons from White Feather Farms in the hamlet of Raglan, just north of Oshawa. It doesn’t get more local than that. Understanding that great garnishes eIevate a dish from special to sublime, Sarah makes some great condiments, like the smoked apple and cranberry chutney on the terrine.  Using a smoker she “McGyver-ed from foil roasting pans,” Sarah turned local Algoma Orchards apples into a sultry sauce. Sarah explained that it takes great vegetables to transform a good steak into a great meal, like the tomatoes she smokes for the gazpacho cocktail or the caramelized onion relish on the organic Bowman beef sandwich.

Drive through Enniskillen and you’ll probably see Eric Bowman’s distinctive cattle – Highland, belted Galloway and others grazing in the field. That’s the beauty of the Thursday night dinners. They make you feel very connected to these locally raised foods and when you taste them, you’re proud to be part of a community where food is produced and prepared in such a thoughtful and tasty way.

Featured farms on the Thursday dinners include Kendal Vale Farms (lamb) on June 18, Gallery on the Farm (beef) on June 25, Windmill Farms (mushrooms) on July 2, Found Family Farm (pork) on July 9, Archibald Orchard and Estate Winery (July 16), The Egg Shack on July 23, Watson Farms on August 6, Pingle’s Farm Market on August 13, Price’s Country Market on August 20 and Algoma Orchards on August 27. Vegetarian options are available. The dinners are already proving popular and some are fully booked, so be sure to reserve soon by calling 905-433-4312.

Art meets nature in Alex Robertson Park

It may seem like an odd juxtaposition, but one of Lake Ontario’s prettiest nature trails is found alongside its major power plant. I visited Pickering’s Alex Robertson Park earlier this week to learn how nature is being given a helping hand by the creation of a beautiful wildlife corridor for birds, beavers and more.

To explain the work that was undertaken, Chris Walker and Margo Sloan from Ontario Power Generation and Mary Williams from the Toronto Region Conservation Authority joined me hiking a roughly 2-kilometre loop through the park on the west side of Frenchman’s Bay. “Those are carp barriers,” said Margo as we saw the marsh from the north parking lot. The submerged wall of old Christmas trees prevents carp, an invasive fish, from uprooting the underwater vegetation and allows the cattails to grow. As a result, red-winged blackbirds, leopard frogs and American toads are now found in the marsh.

We were too noisy to spot any garter snakes near the hibernaculum that was built near the entrance to the trail from the Sandy Beach Road parking lot, but we did see evidence of the beaver at work.

Beavers aren’t the only wood workers here. Artist Dorsey James has carved a series of outdoor sculptures, like this face peeking out from a tree, which left me intrigued.

As we walked south, following the edge of the marsh, I was surprised to see a black-crowned night heron. “This is a great spot for birders,” said Chris.  Some 130 species have been seen here, including egrets. My favourite find of the day was an oriole nest hanging from the pendulous branches of a willow tree. Chris sent me this photo of a warbler spotted in the park two weeks ago.
 
“This is a no-mow area,” explained Margo as we arrived at hill covered with dandelions. It had been left uncut so natural species would colonize the former lawn.

Community volunteers have done their part with numerous tree-planting events, adding thousands of maples, dogwoods and white cedars to the park.

As we neared Lake Ontario, Margo pointed out the yellow raft, below, which serves as a nesting site for terns that find their beach nests subject to increased predation.
A pond, built two years ago, is already attracting plenty of wildlife. Margo sent me this photo of turtles submitted by David Tyndall in the 2008 Pickering
Nuclear Natural Environment/Wildlife Photography Contest.
 

Jan Francis pointed out that this park can be difficult to find because it is not always correctly identified on digital maps. Google Maps calls it "Commerce Street Park".  From Bayly St., drive south on Sandy Beach Road until you are almost at the Pickering nuclear power station. The park will be on your right.

Checking out Clarington’s Bed & Breakfasts

As a travel writer, the question I’m most frequently asked is, “Do you know any good places to stay?” With that in mind, I’m always on the lookout for quality, affordable accommodations that have a special touch.
Bed and breakfast to the rescue. They usually deliver a comfortable room in a congenial setting for a very affordable price. Clarington boasts so many B&Bs that it boasts two free B& B open house tours in the space of a week: first, the Group of Seven Bed and Breakfast Open House, Garden and Artisan Tour on Wednesday, June 3, then the Clarington Country Bed & Breakfasts Open House & Attraction Tour on Sunday, June 7.

Since I hadn’t seen any of the B&Bs on the latter, I joined Luverne Baron for a preview tour of the Clarington Country Bed & Breakfasts Open House—an excellent excuse to explore some of the back roads that run through the pretty countryside north of Bowmanville where lilac and phlox were blooming in profusion along the roadside.

We started at her house, Model A Acres B&B, aptly named for the collection of antique autos gracing the front lawn. The collection began when Luverne and her husband, Ian, dug the first one out of a creek bed in a neighbouring farmer’s field. 

The automotive theme continues indoors where Ian created this fantastic headboard for one of the guest bedrooms. “A Model A bumper is queen-sized,” joked Luverne as she demonstrated the headlamp “night lights”.  No wonder this place is such a big hit with racing fans and drivers at Mosport only six minutes away. When starting her B&B, Luverne wisely decided to ask her husband for a man’s point of view on the desirable features. The result is a loft suite with its own sitting area and private entrance.  Luverne enjoys cooking breakfast from scratch, especially when she can offer something seasonal from her garden like an asparagus and bacon quiche. 

In recent years Ian has begun adding antique aircraft to his collection of vintage vehicles on the front lawn. Guests are invited to pose at the Sopwith Camel or the Red Baron’s triplane wearing leather aviator helmet and old flying goggles.

Just a few metres down the road, Willow Pond Country B&B is a popular wedding venue where brides enjoy posing for wedding photos alongside the pond and massive weeping willow. In keeping with the wedding theme, a celebratory lunch catered by Chantrelle Bistro will be served on veranda on tour day. You don’t need to be a bride-to-be to enjoy staying in the very private pine-panelled guest cabin, adjoining a former barn.

Beside the conservation lands in Enniskillen, Our Valley View B&B enjoys a spectacular natural setting.  Guests enjoy that view, along with a cup of custom-roasted morning coffee, while enjoying breakfast on the balcony. This is a spot I’d book in winter just to enjoy its amazing toboggan hill. During the tour, local artisans will be stationed at all of the seven bed and breakfast homes which also include, Safari Lodge B&B at Jungle Cat World, Hillside Estates B&B, JoeLin Station B&B and Stone Coach House B&B.
You can download a brochure or pick one up along the way. It also shows you where to find many interesting local attractions including the historic Tyrone Mills and Bloom Field Garden Centre.

They enjoy getting fleeced at Spinning Wheel Alpacas

 
If there’s anything cuter than a baby alpaca, I’m not sure what it might be. When I visited Spinning Wheel Alpacas near Enniskillen this baby was bounding through the pen, inspiring its mates to join its antics.

These curious, good-natured animals produce up to 11 pounds of luxurious fleece each year, according to proprietor Nancy Hutchison, who knows each of the 44 animals in her herd by name. One in particular is so good-natured that he is used as a therapy animal. One look at Ozzie’s buck-toothed grin and I could see why. “Most alpacas are hand-shy so they move away when you try to touch them, but Ozzie never read the manual on how to be an alpaca,” joked Nancy who is also a professional therapist who takes Ozzie on visits to school classrooms and seniors’ residences.

Other alpacas, including Darius (above), are raised strictly for their dense fleece “seven times warmer than wool,” said Nancy. A male like Darius is wearing the equivalent of “two adult-sized sweaters, 15 pairs of socks and a scarf. “With such dense coats, “heat is more harmful to them than our winters,” added Nancy. So all that fleece has to come off. That’s exactly what will be happening during the Saturday, May 30 Open House when the herd gets shorn in the barn and local businesses -- fibre artists to organic beef producers -- set up booths in the front yard. Admission donations support the Humane Society of Durham Region.

Alpaca fleece is spun and crafted into socks, sweaters, gloves and some very charming teddy bears like this one—all sold in the Spinning Wheel shop. With fleece in 22 natural colours there is no need to use dyes to produce beautiful alpaca products.
 
Although alpacas are the stars of this farm, it was hard not to be charmed by Socks the pot bellied pig who followed us around, looking for back scratches and belly rubs. 

Equally entertaining was this soccer-playing dog, Spy. During June the farm and shop are open to visitors on Saturdays; other visits are by appointment.

Spring birds at Darlington Provincial Park

There is no place I’d rather be at this time of year than wandering along a wild stretch of Lake Ontario where migrating birds touch down on their northbound journey.

Darlington Provincial Park is one such place. A former United Empire Loyalist farmstead now returned to nature, it’s a popular spot for bird enthusiasts at this time of year when colourful warblers are passing through. This weekend, Darlington’s naturalist, Gord Vogg will be offering birding programs including a guided walk on Sunday May 17 starting 10 a.m. at the 1830s log cabin that now serves as an information centre.

When I visited earlier this week, Gord gave me a little preview, explaining  that the best way to find birds is to look in “appropriate habitats for appropriate species.” At this time of year that would mean looking in forests for warblers and other songbirds as they touch down to feed after crossing Lake Ontario. Warblers tend to be the stars of the spring migration drama because they are “tiny birds with big voices and bright colours,” according to Gord. When conditions are favourable it is possible to see 10 different species of warblers here in one day  in addition to assorted wrens, blackbirds, gulls and many others.

When I checked the sighting board outside the park office, I saw that Nashville warblers, black and white warblers, magnolia warblers and black-throated green warblers had all been seen in the park this week.

The forest path alongside Robinson Creek is a great place to find the insect-eating warblers. Although they’re not always easy to see, their songs fill the air at this time of year along with orioles’ flute-like songs, a catbird’s hoots and chattering chickadees.

I was fascinated by these willow galls which, Gord explained, were made by midges. Harmless to humans, the midges are food for hungry birds.

It was such a perfect morning that I found myself wanting to linger in the park. I followed this flooded gravel roadway down to Lake Ontario, stepping carefully around the murky puddles. What a surprise when I looked down to see the puddle was teeming with tadpoles.

This picnic table is the perfect spot for lunch with a view.

Forests and forensics for Mother’s Day

 
 Skip the gifts. There’s nothing I want more for Mother’s Day than some fun with my kids. Luckily, this weekend brings a couple of great activities we can enjoy together. Best of all, they are all free.
 
 Flowers. Who doesn’t love them? But at this time of year, I like to see them growing wild. There’s no better place to see a wide array of wildflowers than the mixed woods in Heber Down Conservation Area in Whitby where I took these photos earlier this week. On Sunday, the conservation authority’s Cathy Grant will guide a wildflower walk to identify these spring ephemerals and to learn a little of the lore associated with them.

It’s an easy walk along a dirt road that winds through forests on the ancient shoreline of what was once Lake Iroquois at the end of the last ice age. I was stunned by the variety of wildflowers: red and white trilliums (above), Dutchman’s breeches, trout lilies, bellwort (below) and violets, to name a few.

Along the way Cathy will share some of the lore she’s gathered on these ephemeral blooms, many of which were eaten by early settlers and First Nations people. The ripe fruits of mayapple can be used to make a tasty jam – but only the ripe fruits. “First Nations people used the corm (or root) of the Jack-in-the-Pulpit sliced like potato chips. But it has to be baked first. Eaten raw, it’s hotter than a habanera pepper,” explained Cathy. However, there’s no need to eat any of these pretty blooms. Tea and cookies will be served in the picnic shelter. Please register by e-mailing Cathy.

Here’s one wildflower (above) that I couldn’t identify. If anyone recognizes it, I’d love to know what it is.

 It might not be the usual sort of outing one plans for a Mother’s Day weekend, but CSI Oshawa on Saturday, May 9 will have you and your mum learning how to examine blood splatter and identify fingerprints together.  As part of a GTA-wide Science Rendezvous, UOIT has scheduled a cornucopia of cool science stuff, from maggot races and flaming gummy bears to a look at the science of mummification. A mock crime scene set up at the university’s Polansky Commons will provide forensic science professionals a chance to walk you through an investigation and debunk a few CSI myths along the way.